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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 





CO^V RIGHT- ^>J' 



I 



PRIZES TO CHILDREN FOR WINDOW 
GARDENS. 



In 1872, the Massachusetts Horticultural Soci- 
ety offered prizes to children of the city for win- 
dow gardens. Plants were distributed by those 
charitably disposed and by the churches, and the 
good work has gone on ever since. The illus- 
trations on our cover and on page 20, are sketches 
of actual scenes by D. Lothrop & Co., of Bos- 
ton, publishers of Wide Awake^ showing the chil- 
dren conling to the exhibition with their prize 
plants. 

The committee's report says : " The first year, 
prizes were awarded to over one hundred children. 
# * ^ It is a most beautiful sight to see the 
children come trooping into the hall with their 
little arms firmly clasping the prize plants, and 
testimony from the home shows that all the in- 
mates come to claim a sort of ownership in the 
reward." 



<y 



^"^^^ 



4 Window Gardening.* 

H^ How to Make House PJdnts Bloom. 



BY PROF. S. T. MAYNARD, 

Professor of Botany and Horticulture at the Massa- 
chusetts Agricultural College. 



" Who loves a garden loves a greenhouse, too. 
Unconscious of a less propitious clime, 
There blooms exotic beauty, warm and snug. 
While the winds whistle, and the snows descend." 

— Coivper. 

The growing of house plants — or "Window 
Gardening," as it is happily termed — is rapidly 
increasing. The rich and the poor are alike 
engaged in this beautiful pastime ; and it is grat- 
ifying that the poor, as well as the rich, can pos- 

*Copyright 1889 by Bowker Fertilizer Co. 



sess and enjoy all the beauty and fragrance and 
refining influence which attend the cultivation of 
flowers by the household. 

In the growing of house plants, the first aim 
should be healthy plants, and after that early 
and abundant blossoms. The latter is usually the 
great object, and too eagerly sought, — an object, 
however, which can be attained only by follow- 
ing certain well-established rules, and attending 
carefully to the many wants of the plants, — just 
as carefully, in short, as if they were so many 
children placed in one's charge. In many re- 
spects plants are like children. They must be 
properly fed, housed, and protected from the 
enemies which would destroy them. This done, 
they will grow and flourish, and delight the 
whole household. And what is more beautiful 
in the home than children and flowers .'' But, if 
it is not given to every family to have children, 
certainly every family can have a plant of some 
kind, even if it be only a geranium, a rose, or 
an ivy. 

How often we hear the remark, " Her flowers 



are her children " ! and when one meets such a 
woman, he finds her full of enthusiasm and love 
for the plants w^iich crowd her windows. Such 
a person usually needs no instruction about the 
growing of flowers ; for she is generally well in- 
formed concerning their culture, and the sugges- 
tions we offer will not be new to her. Unfortu- 
nately, however, there is a large class who 
keep a few plants, which for some reason are 
stunted, unsightly, and a positive annoyance to 
their owners. They tend them well, or think 
they do ; and yet they do not flourish. This state 
of things is due, not to a lack of care, but to a 
lack of knowledge touching a few simple rules 
which lie at the basis of successful window-gar- 
dening. It is for this class that the following 
directions and suggestions are offered, which, 
if carried out, will insure healthy, luxuriant, and 
blooming plants, — the delight and pride of the 
cultivator. 

HOW TO WATER PLANTS. 

When the soil becomes dr}^, which may be 




HELPING MOTHER." From the painting by Jan Verhas. 



7 
known by the appearance of the surface of the 
soil and the sides of the pot, water should be 
applied until it begins to run into the saucer. 
No more water should be givm until the soil agaiii 
becomes dry, or nearly so, — which will depend 
upon the dryness of the atmosphere, the amount 
of soil in the pots, and the foliage upon the plant, 
— when water should be used as before, the true 
principle being to keep the soil as nearly as pos- 
sible in the same condition as for the best growth 
in the out-door garden. More plants are injured 
by overwatering than by underwatering ; yet they 
should not be allowed to get so dry as to wilt. 
When plants are growing rapidly, they should be 
watered more freely than when at rest. 

Pots should be washed as often as mould or 
fungus growth appears, to allow evaporation and 
a free access of air. 

HOW TO PREPARE THE EARTH. 

The best soil for house plants is that which 
contains some undecayed organic matter, like leaf- 



mould or partly decayed sods, with a small ad- 
mixture of sand. In potting, the soil must be 
pressed firmly around the roots of the plant, and 
the pot filled to wfthin half an inch of the sur- 
face. Then apply a dressing of some kind, or the 
Ammoniated Food for Flowers, described else- 
where in this book, — about a teaspoonful (not 
heaping) for a two-quart pot, and at the same rate 
for larger or smaller sizes. It should be tJuwoughly 
mixed with the soil or it can be used in a liquid 
form by dissolving one teaspoonful in two quarts 
of water. 

HOW TO PLANT ROOTS AND BULBS. 

Bulbs of Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, Lilies, 
etc., which naturally grow at some distance be- 
low the surface of the soil, should be planted in 
pots, and kept in a cool, dark place until the 
roots are developed, the darkness having the effect 
of keeping back the growth of the top until the 
roots have made a good growth. Oxalis, Bego- 
nias, Gloxinias, Caladiums, and other bulbous or 
bulbous-rooted plants, while at rest, must be kept 



9 
in a warm, dry place, in the soil in which they 
grew, and not watered until growth commences, 
when they should be potted in fresh soil, and, as 
soon as they begin to grow vigorously, they should 
be watered as directed above. 

HOW TO SLIP AND ROOT PLANTS. 

Nearly all kinds of plants may be easily rooted 
in bottles of water, or in saucers or other earthen 
dishes in which is placed sand that is kept very 
moist, so that water will stand upon the surface. 
These must be kept in a warm place, and occa- 
sionally in the full sunshine, but not long enough 
to cause them to wilt. When fully rooted, put in 
good soil in small pots. Cuttings should gener- 
ally be made of the soft growth, about two or 
three inches in length, cut at any convenient 
point with a sharp knife. 

HOW TO CUT BACK PLANTS. 

Plants grown in the house are best kept in 
good shape by pinching the end buds of those 
shoots that grow too vigorously. This is much 
better than allowing a few shoots to grow until 



they need support, and then cutting them back. 
In taking up plants from the garden for house 
culture, it is best to cut back at least one-half, 
and, after potting in good soil, water at once, and 
put in a cool, shaded place. 

TEMPERATURE. 

The plants which do best in a rather cool 
room, never below 35° or above 70"^, but averag- 
ing about 55°, are Azaleas, Daisies, Carna- 
tions, Candytuft, Sweet Alyssum, Centaurea, or 
Dusty Miller, Chrysanthemums, Cinerarias, Ca- 
mellias, Daphne odora. Feverfews, Geraniums, Pe- 
tunias, Primroses, Sweet-scented Violets, Ver- 
benas, and Vincas. 

Plants requiring more heat, never below 50^ or 
above 90^, but an average of about 700, are Abu- 
tilons, Achyranthems, Begonias, Bouvardias, 
Caladiums, Cannas, Cape Jessamine, Coleus, Eu- 
patoriums, Fuchsias, Gloxinias, Heliotropes, Lan- 
tanas. Lobelias, Mahernias, Othonnas, Roses, 
Smilax, etc. 



TI 

Plants that succeed well in the shade are Be 
gonias, Camellias, Ferns, German and English 
Ivies, etc. 

Those that require a very rich soil or a more 
liberal use of manure or the Ammoniated Food 
are the Calla, Rose, and Smilax. 

Plants grown in small pots bloom more freely 
than those grown in larger ones, but are more 
liable to injury from drying of the earth. 

WINTERING PLANTS. 

Many plants not wanted for blooming may be 
easily preserved during the winter in a partial 
state of rest, in a light cellar, where there is no 
danger of frost. The best method of doing this 
is to take up such plants as Roses, Geraniums, 
Lantanas, Lemon Verbenas, etc., with a good 
quantity of soil about the roots, and place them 
in boxes, packing the soil closely about the roots. 
Place the boxes in the cellar, and do not water 
unless the soil becomes nearly dust dry, when 
they must be watered a very little. Should the 



cellar be very warm, the plants must be less freely 
watered than in a cool cellar. 

When the plants are desired for growth, cut 
back closely, give them a thorough watering, and 
bring into the full light in a warm room. Roses 
are particularly successful when brought from the 
cellar in January or February, after a season of 
two or three months' rest. In this case the soil 
used at the time of taking them from the ground 
should be rich. Cannas, Caladiums, etc., may be 
successfully wintered, if the cellar be warm and 
dry. 

FROZEN PLANTS. 

Should one be so unfortunate as to have plants 
slightly frozen, the proper thing to be done is to 
get the frost out as quickly as possible ; for many 
plants that would not be injured by freezing for a 
short time, would be destroyed if they were kept in 
a frozen condition for several hours. To remove 
the frost most quickly, if the plant be small, dip it 
into a pail of cold water, or, if large, place it in 
the sink and give it a good showering. 



f3 

PROTECTION FROM FROSTS. 

No material is better or more convenient for 
this purpose than ordinary newspapers. A plant 
wrapped in three or four thicknesses of paper 
may be kept in a room with the temperature 
down to 20*^ above zero all night, and not be in- 
jured. 

CHANGE OF TEMPERATURE. 

It is necessary to follow natural changes of 
temperature. Out of doors we find the tempera- 
ture varying some 10° to 20° from u.^ ^o day, 
and even more when the sun shines brightly. Z^ 
in the house we must have these changes for the 
best growth. Plants must have pure air, also, 
as well as animals ; and every day, when the tem- 
perature outside is above freezing, the windows 
must be raised, or ventilation given in such a way 
as to avoid a direct draught of cold air upon the 
plant. Sunlight is also indispensable ; and, if 
plants cannot be placed where the sunlight will 
reach them some part of the day, they should be 



u 

put where the sun will strike them once or twice 
each week for an hour or two. 

HOW TO DESTROY INSECTS AND VERMIN. 

If the plants have been properly watered and 
enriched so as to grow healthy and strong, they 
will probably not be infested to any great extent 
M'ith these pests. In case they are, they can 
only be kept down by close attention while there 
are but few. The best way to get rid of them is 
to brush them off into a basin of water with a 
soft, dry b '^sh. A small paint-brush is the best 
for ^^^' ^ iipose. The above remedy is by far 
tiTe safest and causes the least trouble, and, if 
taken in season, is effectual. Should the red spi- 
der get upon the leaves, sponge them with hot 
water. Plants will not be injured by water as 
hot as can be used by the hand, and both this 
insect and the green fly may be destroyed in this 
manner. 

WASHING. 

It is well to wash all plants occasionally with 



J5 
soapsuds or whale-oil soap, particularly Ivies, 
which to do well need washing every few weeks ; 
but in all cases the plants should be rinsed in 
clear water if much soap is used. 

HOW TO REPOT PLANTS AND HOW TO TAKE 
THEM UP IN THE FALL. 

Plants that have grown too large for the pots, 
so that the roots almost literally fill the earth, 
should be put into a pot of a larger size, and fresh 
soil added. The old soil should be picked out 
from the outer edges of the roots, care being taken 
not to break the roots too much, the object being, 
in repotting, not only to give a larger-sized pot 
and renew the soil, but to make the soil lighter 
and more porous about the roots, — the same as is 
done in cultivating land. When the plants do not 
res^Dond to watering or enriching, it may be due 
to one of two causes, — either the soil has become 
sour and unhealthy or they need repotting. Plants 
should be taken up in the fall, before the severe 
frosts, and placed in pots with as much earth as 
possible clinging to the roots. Crowd the earth 



i6 

about the roots so that the plant will stand up, 
and water as usual. In repotting or taking up 
plants, the soil should be enriched ; and this is 
best done by adding a teaspoonful (not heaping) 
and no more, of Bowker's Ammoniated Food for 
Flowers to a .two-quart pot, thoroughly mixing it 
with the soil, and at the same rate for larger or 
smaller pots. 

DECORATIVE PLANTS-PALMS. 

Many of the Palms are popular for vase, 
basket, pedestal, veranda, or window-garden 
culture. They require a firm rich soil. They 
should be given an abundance of water when 
growing in the spring and summer, but when at 
rest, only water enough to keep the soil moist. 
They should be repotted each fall before they 
are brought into winter quarters. Among the 
best and most easily grown varieties are Latania 
Borbonica (Dwarf Fan Palm), Cycas revoluta 
(Sago Palm), Cocos Weddelliana (Cocoanut 
Palm). 



17 
INDIA RUBBER TREE. 

The beautiful, large, shining green leaves of 
this plant are especially ornamental in vases, as 
a central piece in a window-box or as a pedestal 
or corner plant. 

It requires little or no sunlight, and will stand 
more neglect than almost any other plant. 

Water freely when growing. The leaves grow 
so slowly that great care must be taken that they 
do not get broken or torn and require removal. 
This applies also to the palms as well. 

BRACJENJE, (DRAGON TREES). 

The varieties of DracainfE require more heat 
than the palms or the rubber tree ; but they are 
very graceful and beautiful. They are especially 
useful as summer basket or vase plants. The best 
varieties are Dracaena terminalis and Dracaena 
indivisa. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

To grow this most beautiful flower to per- 
fection requires much care and skill. Slips 



i8 

should be made of new soft growth or by dividing 
the suckers into single shoots. When well 
rooted, these should be placed in boxes or pots 
and kept growing until May, the end shoots in the 
mean time being pinched out several times if nec- 
essary, so that the plants may not be over three 
or four inches high, but stocky. These are 
planted out in May as soon as the ground can be 
worked in good garden soil. Continue pinching 
until July, and in August take up and pot in rich 
soil and put in a cool shaded place for a few days 
until they become established', then gradually ex- 
pose them to light and heat. 

If large blossoms are desired, all the buds but 
the central one on each branch should be picked 
off; this will cause those which are left to 
increase in proportion to the number of buds on 
the plant. If only one or two large flowers are 
desired, all lateral branches should be prevented 
from growing, and the whole force of the plant 
directed to the central shoot. Success will be in 



»0 
proportion to the skill displayed in directing the 
growth where it is desired. 

HYDRANGEA. 

This showy plant has become very popular as 
a veranda or lawn plant, and is of easy culture 
Slips or cuttings are made in July. During the 
growing season it should have an abundance of 
plant food and water. It may be successfully 
wintered in a half-growing state in a cool, dry, 
and light cellar or in a cool greenhouse. At this 
time it should be watered only enough to keep 
the soil a little moist, — say once a week. In the 
spring, when growth begins, it should be repotted 
in rich soil. The size of the flowers depends 
upon the vigor of growth of foliage. 



The following is taken from a pamphlet, on 
" Window Gardening," published by the Window 
Gardening Committee of the Massachusetts Hor- 
ticultural Society : — 

"There is a certain charm to young and old 
alike in the cultivation of house plants, which is 
not always felt in out-door gardening, or on a 
more extensive scale in the greenhouse or con- 
servatory. Just why this is we will not attempt 
to explain ; but we confess ourselves to having 
often felt more of an attraction for a healthy car- 
nation or a brilliant petunia, which we had nursed 
from a tiny slip and grown in our window, than 
for a whole row of choice zinnias or group of 
roses in our out-door garden. Perhaps it is the 
sense of absolute control and delightful owner- 
ship which lends this added charm, for certainly 
our window plants are as dependent on us for 
nourishment and care as a helpless infant in the 
arms of its mother. Suppose we withhold the 
needed supply of water for a longer period than 
usual, the unspoken pleading is shown by the 



drooping leaves and branches ; and how quickly 
appreciation is shown by brightening up, when 
moisture is given ! There is a real language of 
flowers, with which only the ardent lover and cul- 
tivator of plants can become conversant. 

"To the lover of the beautiful there is always 
something new and of untiring interest in plant 
life, whether his researches be in floriculturel, hor- 
ticulture, or agriculture ; and no one who is thus 
brought in contact with Nature can but realize 
with what wondrous fitness the Author of all has 
placed those gifts with us for our benefit and en- 
joyment." 



BOWKER'S 

AMMONIATED 

'OOD FOR f LOWERS, 



-POWKERS- 

►^ ammoniated 
Food *- Flowers. 

7his package con - 
tains sufficient 

PLANT FOaO FOR 20 
PLANTS FOB ONE rEAR 



A Dressing made expressly for 
plants grown in the house, gar- 
deft, or conservatory ; dean, 
odorless, and producing early 
and abundant blossoms of rich 
and brilliant color, and healthy, 
luxuriant plants, free from 
vermin. 

This Ammoniated Food was 
^& first odorless ahemical fer- 
tilizer made and sold in this country, and is 
prepared expressly for flowers grown in the house, 




24 

garden, or conservatory, and contains the 
same plant food as stable dressing, but in a 
cleaner, more concentrated and more soluble form. 
The stable dressing is disagreeable to handle, 
slow in its effects, oftentimes breeding vermin 
about the roots of plants, and, when applied in a 
warm room, frequently gives off an offensive and 
unhealthy odor, especially to be avoided if the 
plants are grown in the " living room." The 
same is true of rank-smelling guano, which is by 
some recommended for in-door plants. 

NO OFFENSIVE ODOR. 

This Flower Food gives off no offensive or un- 
healthy odor, and, being immediately soluble and 
ready for the plants to take up, produces a much 
quicker and healthier growth, earlier and more 
abundant blossoms, of a richer and more brilliant 
coloring than stable manure, guano, or any other 
dressing can produce, 

NOT A STIMULANT. 

It is not a stimulant for plants any more than 
beef tea is a stimulant for man ; but it is a true 



25 

plant food, in a form easily and quickly assimi- 
lated, the same as beef tea is a concentrated form 
of nourishment, more quickly and easily digested 
than raw beef. 

RICHER AND BRIGHTER COLORS. 

Ladies and florists who have used this dressing 
speak not only of the healthy growth and the ear- 
ly and abundant blossoms which it produces, but 
also of the deeper and richer, or brighter and 
more beautiful color it imparts to them. 

PROLONGS THE PERIOD OF BLOOMING. 

This Dressing also prolongs the period of 
blooming, many varieties of plants, like the gera- 
nium, blossoming almost continually if properly 
fed with it. It is therefore not always neces- 
sary to set plants away for a season of rest, 
though this practice is usually advisable, as 
plants, like animals, need rest. 

PROTECTION FROM INSECTS. 

Will this Food destroy insects and vermin on 
plants ? No ; but it will protect them from these 



26 



&J 



pests by giving a more vigorous growth ; and in 
sects and vermin rarely ever attack strong 
healthy, growing plants. 

DIRECTIONS. 



It is dissolved at the rate of two tablespoonfuls 
in a gallon of water, which is a sufficient quan- 
tity at one ti?ne for twenty ordinary house plants 
like geraniums ; and the plants are watered with 
this solution, the same as if it were clear water, 
applying a small quantity to the smaller and more 
tender plants, like heliotropes, and a larger quan- 
tity to the larger and more hardy plants, like 
roses and fuchsias. The solution should be stirred 
while applying it, as not all of it is immediately 
soluble in water, but becomes so after remaining 
in the soil for a little time. The particles which 
are deposited on the surface should be dug a 
little way into the earth after the solution is ap- 
plied. The powder originally is made very fine, 
but it will lump to some extent, like sugar. These 
lumps should be made fine before dissolving in 



27 

water. For roses it should be used in larger 
quantity, say at the rate of four tablespoonfuls to 
a gallon of water. 

HOW OFTEN TO USE IT. 

It is applied (at the rate of two tablespoonfuls 
for twenty plants, dissolved in a gallon of water) 
o?ice a week for three or four weeks, or until the 
plants begin to start, which will be noticed in a 
greener growth. After that, not oftener than once 
in four or six weeks. The solution should not be 
poured over the leaves, but directly on the earth, 
and should not be used in any larger quantity at 
a time, or oftener than above directed. The or- 
dinary package (No. 2) contains all the plant food 
twenty house plants should receive in one year, 
and will give a healthy growth and abundant flow- 
ering, and never harm them, except by a more 
liberal use, — the same as food is essential and 
beneficial, but, if eaten to excess, is liable to do 
injury. 

It may be thought the quantity is small ; but it 



28 

is large enough, as will be seen after applying it 
for a little while. It will keep any length of 
time. 

WHEN THE EFFECTS WILL BE NOTICED. 

The effects of this Ammoniated Food will be 
seen in a week or ten days on tender succulent 
plants ; but on hardy plants like roses, or plants 
with woody stems, not under several weeks. The 
first effects will be to produce a greener and more 
healthy growth, after that more generous flower- 
ing. 

For Rose Borders, apply at the rate of 5 lbs. 
for 100 square feet, worked a little way into the 
soil. If it is desired to force the growth, a second 
application of the same quantity may be made a 
month or six weeks later. 

FOR OUTDOOR USE. 

Apply at the rate of 5 lbs. to 100 square feet, 
thoroughly worked into the soil to the depth of 
two or three inches. This quantity is recom- 
mended when no manure at all is used ; but, if a 
liberal dressing of manure is applied, then a 
smaller quantity of the fertilizer should be used. 



No. I Package. — Sufficient for 20 ordinary-sized 
plants for three months, 25 cents. Sent by 
mail, postage prepaid, on receipt of price. 

No. 2 Package. — Sufficient for 20 ordinary 
sized plants for one year, 50 cents. Sent by 
mail, postage prepaid, on receipt of price. 
Sample Bags. — Sufficient for 100 plants for one 
year or for conservatory or greenhouse use, 
$T.oo, delivered free by express to any part 
of the country on receipt of price. 
If your druggist or grocer does not have it do 
not accept any imitations, but send directly 
to us for a package, which we will send by mail 
or express. Remittances may be made by pos- 
tage stamps, postal note, or money order, which 
can be obtained at any post-office. 



43 Chatham St., Boston, 27 Beaver St., New York. Manufacttirers 
of Special Fertilizers, Boivker^s Ammoniated Food for Flowers, 
and Agricultural Chemicals. 



Letters from Prominent Florticulturists 
who have used 

Bowker's Food for 'Flowers. 



From Hon. WM. H. SPOONER, President Massachusetts 
Horticultural Society, and a large Rose Grower. 

Gentlemen : — I have used your Food for Flowers as a top 
dressing for roses planted on benches, also for pot plants 
with great success. It produced a vigorous grcwth, and 
brilliant texture to the leaf. 

I have used the Food for Flowers, Sulphate of Ammo 
nia, and horse manure, each on the same number of plants, 
and the results were strongly in favor of the Food for 
Flowers. WM. H. SPOONER. 



From Report of the Window Gardening Committee Massa- 
chusetts Horticultural Society. 

For a long time there has been a great want among win- 
dow-gardeners for some kind of dressing that shall not 
only produce healthy plants, free from vermin, and abun- 
dant early blossoms, but which at the same time may be 
easily applied, without offensive odor, or without injury to 
the plant. We are glad to say that the Ammoniated Plant 
Food, made by the Bowker Fertilizer Company of this 



31 
city is just what is needed, and is especially appreciated by 
those who live in cities and cannot easily obtain leaf-mould 
and other suitable fertilizing material. 



From the Superintendent of the Boston Public Garden. 

Boston. 
I have used Bowker's Food for Flowers in the flower 
beds of the Public Garden and Squares of Boston during 
the past season, and find it to be all that it is represented, 
both as to producing healthy growth of the plant and its 
generous flowering. WILLIAM DOOGUE, Supt. 



From W. C. STRONG, Ex-President of Massachusetts Hor- 
ticultural Society, and a Large Grower of Flowers and 
Roses. 

Newton, Mass. 
Gentlemen : — For several months past we have used your 
Plant Fertilizers upon our roses in pots, for the purpose of 
testing results. While we do not consider the experiment 
as completed, we yet feel safe in saying that our plants have 
received very decided benefit, and are now in better condi- 
tion than we have ever had them at this season. A 
most excellent condition of wood and roots has been ob. 
tained. We are so much encouraged that we are now 
using it upon our rose borders for winter forcing, and con- 
fidently expect that we shall be able to give you more posi- 
tive and very favorable results at a later date. 

Yours truly, W. C. STRONG. 



"Flowers are God's thoughts in bloom. 



" Is THERE not A SOUL BEYOND UTTERANCE, HALF NYMPH, HALF 
CHILD, IN THOSE DELICATE PETALS WHICH GLOW AND BREATHE 

ABOUT THE CENTRES OF DEEP coi.o'rV^— George EUot. 



"Where grows? Where grows it not? If vain our toil, 
We ought to blame the culture, not the soil." 

—Pope. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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